The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 24


The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 24
Down Through Italy by Rail--Idling in Florence--Dante and Galileo--An Ungrateful City--Dazzling Generosity--Wonderful Mosaics--The Historical Arno--Lost Again--Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Ready--The Leaning Tower of Pisa--The Ancient Duomo--The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung--An Enchanting Echo--A New Holy Sepulchre--A Relic of Antiquity--A Fallen Republic--At Leghorn--At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship--Our Vessel an Object of Grave Suspicion--Garibaldi Visited--Threats of Quarantine

Mark Twain travels through Bolognia, Pistoia, and into Florence. Because of the fatigue from the journey as well as the distain he feels for Florence's treatment of Galileo and Dante, he does not speak highly of Florence. Apparently, some years in the future he does change his mind about the place as he chooses to live there for some time, at least circa 1902. He writes of the mosaics and the maltreatment received by the artists, or "pensioners". He then travels to Pisa and climbs the Leaning Tower. Twain writes of the "old original patriarchal Pendulum--the Abraham Pendulum of the world". This is the lamp hanging from the ceiling of the Baptistery that inspired Galileo. Twain then travels on to Leghorn and returns to his ship, the Quaker City. The threat of quarantine in Naples prompts two or three of the travelers to jump ship and travel to Civita aboard a French steamer.

I've again tried to create an instructive slideshow that includes images from Wikipedia Commons as well as the original illustrations from the book. The slideshow was created using the open source program Imagination. The audio was recorded live using Audacity.


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Submitted by scott on

I have actually attached the letter, published in Daily Alta California on September 16, 1867, to chapter 25. I'd like to move it to this chapter but this will take some research into Drupal modules. I don't want to upload a second copy of the letter to this site. In this letter is his description of the gunboat "set to watch the Quaker City at Leghorn", as per McKeithan.

Submitted by scott on

22 July SLC and companions departed Venice by train, passing through Bologna and Pistoia overnight.
23 July SLC and companions arrived in Florence; QC departed Genoa, 7:00 p.m.
24 July QC arrived at Leghorn, 7:00 a.m.
?25 July SLC and companions departed Florence on the noon train for Pisa, where they spent two hours; they arrived at Leghorn in the evening and boarded the ship.