The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 41


The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 41
Vandalism Prohibited—Angry Pilgrims—Approaching Holy Land!—The "Shrill Note of Preparation"—Distress About Dragomans and Transportation—The "Long Route" Adopted—In Syria—Something about Beirout—A Choice Specimen of a Greek "Ferguson"—Outfits—Hideous Horseflesh—Pilgrim "Style"—What of Aladdin's Lamp?

The Pilgrims are "busted" for vandalism, the pilfering of souvenirs from Ephesus. They are quite indignant about it when they think the order to empty their pockets originated with the Ottomans. They become contrite when it is discovered that the British Empire is only protecting an English company holding the excavation rights. I assume this is the same company John Turtle Wood is associated with.

This portion of the book is not represented in any of the letters posted by Mark Twain during the excursion nor is the following section on the rather hectic preparations on board the ship prior to their arrival in Beirut.

The excursion then sails from Smyrna to Beirut, Lebanon where eight of the party, including Mark Twain, embark on the "Long Trip" through Syria by Baalbec to Damascus then through the full length of Palestine.


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Submitted by scott on

Ian Strathcarron, in Innocence and War, notes that the caravansera was lead by a Maltese dragoman named Abraham and his assistant from Alexandria, Mohammed. It consisted of twelve (12) horses for the eight Americans and the dragomen; nineteen (19) porters, bearers, and waiters, all on foot; and twenty-six (26) pack mules and camels. That's traveling in style just like the old African safari movies.

Submitted by scott on

6 Sept Large QC party, including SLC, visited Ephesus during the day; QC departed Smyrna, 11:00 p.m.
10 Sept QC arrived at Beirut before daylight.
11 Sept SLC and companions11 departed Beirut on horseback, 3:00 p.m., camping that night ten or twelve miles east of the city.

Submitted by scott on

"We are cut up into parties of six or eight, and by this time are scattered far and wide. Ours is the only one, however, that is venturing on what is called "the long trip"--that is, out into Syria, by Baalbec to Damascus, and thence down through the full length of Palestine. It would be a tedious, and also a too risky journey, at this hot season of the year, for any but strong, healthy men, accustomed somewhat to fatigue and rough life in the open air. The other parties will take shorter journeys." (Page 431).