Following the Equator: Chapter XXXV
Twain begins this chapter by proclaiming the virtues of the New Zealand Railways, the Ballarat Flyer in particular. The Ballarat Flyer, however, seems to be a fictitious railroad. His 50 mile journey from Palmerston North to Whanganui was aboard "The Napier Express", which ran from Napier to Wellington, and not all of this line was as pleasant as the leg to Whanganui.
The War Memorial at Whanganui:
https://nzhistory.govt.nz/media/photo/moutoa-gardens-nz-wars-memorial