The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 24

Mark Twain travels through Bolognia, Pistoia, and into Florence. Because of the fatigue from the journey as well as the distain he feels for Florence's treatment of Galileo and Dante, he does not speak highly of Florence. Apparently, some years in the future he does change his mind about the place as he chooses to live there for some time, at least circa 1902. He writes of the mosaics and the maltreatment received by the artists, or "pensioners". He then travels to Pisa and climbs the Leaning Tower. Twain writes of the "old original patriarchal Pendulum--the Abraham Pendulum of the world".

Florence

The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 23

In this chapter we learn more about Venice, it's gondolas and it's art, "The Old Masters" and that of the Renaissance. Twain weighs in as an art critique. One area of particular interest to me is his revisiting the characteristics of what might be called the "Ugly American". "It is not pleasant to see an American thrusting his nationality forward obtrusively in a foreign land, but Oh, it is pitiable to see him making of himself a thing that is neither male nor female, neither fish, flesh, nor fowl--a poor, miserable, hermaphrodite Frenchman!"

Peg

The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 22

Much like chapter 11, where we visit the dungeons of France, here we visit the chambers of the Council of Three and the Bridge of Sighs. Twain is not timid about demonstrating man's inhumanity to man. Again Mark Twain is disappointed to learn his preconceived ideas of Venice are not realized. Nighttime, however, returns some of the glamour he expected.

Disgusted Gondolier

The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 20

Twain travels from Milan to Lake Como. He stays in the small town of Bellagio, once the site of a Roman resort. He waxes poetic over the differences between Lake Tahoe and Lake Como but his bigotry in regards to Native Americans spoils the show. Included on this page is a copy of Letter 8 of Twain's offerings to the Daily Alta California, dated September 22, 1867. It was written in July of 1867. Most of the letter applies to this chapter but the paragraphs on The Last Supper were used in chapter 19.

The Fumigation

The Innocents Abroad - Chapter 19

An exploration of the art in Milan, Di Vinci, Michelangelo, etc. We also get a peek at Lucretia Borgia and Petrarch's Laura. The chapter contains Twain's reflections on Di Vinci's The Last Supper and comments on how the image is described by viewers. How is it possible to perceive the many nuances said to be found in the painting when it is in such a degraded condition.

The Last Supper was described by Twain in Letter number 8 to The Daily Alta California. This is only a small portion of the letter. I expect to include a copy of the letter with the Chapter 20 material.

La Scala Theatre

Living with Dementia

My mother's dementia is becoming more and more prominent. The last couple of weeks she has been fixated on an early childhood friend, Buddy McQuat. He died at an early age from measels, obviously my mother survived. It seems she has been suffering from a deep seated guilt about that and it is now plaguing her. I had heard the story many times from many years before she had any indication of dementia. Her mother was Christian Science, her father was not. She and Buddy both caught the measels and I've gotten some hints that she believes he got it from her.

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